Monday, February 28, 2011

Costa Esmeralda


I spent two days at this aging resort in the Costa Esmeralds, north of Veracruz. There may have been one other room occupied so it had a bit of a "Shining" feel to it. I am now in Texas having spent several days cruising northward, including stops in Tampico, Ciudad Victoria, crossing the border, Brownsviille, Harlingen, a new rear tire and oil change and now in Victoria, TX. The wind has been a consistent issue in the past few travel days and I'm feeling the pull of home. 







Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Catemaco

After two long days of riding, including a night in a mosquito-filled room in Frontera, I arrived in Catemaco, on the shores of the lake that shares it's name. Any town that has a statue of a man holding a paddle is ok with me. 

I took a tour boat (lancha) around the lake. Lots of fishermen and islands. 

One of the islands contained these monkeys (baboons?), which are not actually native to the area but were brought here by a nearby university. They didn't know what to do with them after the study so they put them on this island. Odd.

When I returned to my room, this was on my bed. Not sure if these are native to the area either.

I took a quick ride to Salto de Eyipantla, a nearby waterfall that is nearly 200 ft. high.

Very impressive. Mr. Lanik pointed out in a recent e-mail that I seem to find destinations near water. Good observation. I feel at my best when I am around water.





Saturday, February 19, 2011

Casa Peon

I rode into the sleepy fishing village of Celestun and was craving a cup of coffee. A man was sitting in the window of this place and said that I should have one there. When they brought my personal french press with delicious java, I knew I had the right place. They have two rooms here and one was available so I relaxed for 3 days.

Not much happening in Celestun.

The other tenants.

Sunset on the beach each night.

I took a boat ride to the river and we came across an amazing number of flamingos. Beautiful.


They took us back into the mangroves.

This was called the "ojo de agua"









Tuesday, February 15, 2011

La Mer

It's been quite a haul since I left Flores, Guatemala. I got up at sunrise and hit the road, crossing the Belize border early with a spitting rain falling (the first I have encountered since Oklahoma during the first week of the trip). I ended up riding all the way to within 6 miles of the Mexico border and stayed in Corozal, on a bay of the Caribbean Sea. The next morning, I was up early again and crossed the border, arriving in Tulum in the middle of the morning. The roads here are straight and flat so the miles go quickly. The picture above was taken on the beach at Tulum. After two nights there, I put in a 300 mile day through the backroads of the Yucatan Peninsula. I stopped in Las Coloradas, where salt is "produced". Rode through countless fishing villages.


I ended up In Puerto Progreso, a busy shipping port. This morning was a much shorter journey to Celestun, a picturesque fishing village where I intend to rest up before another stretch of riding. 

I have been looking at maps and planning my possible route back. I must say that I have mixed feelings. Part of me is excited about being home with family, friends and familiar surroundings. Another part of me laments that the end of the journey is in sight. I love being on the road. 


Thursday, February 10, 2011

Welcome to the Jungle


I woke up Saturday and felt the need to hit the road despite having my room in paradise booked for 2 more nights. The party had arrived and there didn't seem to be an end in sight. The next few days of riding were the toughest on the whole trip (with the possible exception of one section in the Baja). I rode on more dirt than pavement, with landslides from the previous rainy season completely washing out the road in places. At the same time, it was very beautiful and nice to be in rural areas. I stayed a night in Upsantan in the mountains and rode to Coban so I could watch the Super Bowl in a 400 year-old convent (congratulations Packers). I rode to a organic foodie spot called Finca Ixobel and, of course, found the first food that disagreed with my stomach on the whole trip. 

This frog also visited me in the shower.

After a day of recovery, I headed for Flores and a 4:30am van ride to Tikal, a Mayan community from about 800 B.C. to 870 A.D.. The van ride itself was an adventure but Tikal was amazing. We climbed up many of the temples to the sounds of howler monkeys and a myriad of birds. 










Thursday, February 3, 2011

Lago Atitlan

In my search for places to visit away from cities, I happened upon this gem. I'm staying in San Pedro, on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. The lake was formed by a volcanic explosion 84,000 years ago (like Crater Lake in Oregon) and is surrounded by 3 other volcanoes. These pictures were taken from the deck of my hotel room. Yesterday, I rented a kayak and went across the lake to a high ledge and jumped in the lake. Jill and David showed up a couple days ago and they are going to take spanish lessons here for 2 weeks. This is the 4th place our paths have met. 





During my time in San Cristobal, there was a funeral for a bishop who was loved by many of the indigenous people of the area http://www.independent.ie/breaking-news/world-news/rebels-pay-tribute-to-former-bishop-2512897.html . The square around the church was amazing as people from all around came to pay their respects. I then headed for the border, on yet another beautiful mountain road. Not too much trouble there and my first night in Guatemala was in a bustling town called Huehuetenango (pronounced way-way). The road followed a rushing mountain stream for many miles.